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Sewing a coat requires basic machine sewing skills. Although it may appear to be difficult, most coats have few pattern pieces and are easy to fit because they do not hug close to the body. When selecting a pattern to sew, look for simple sleeves and a plain front. Stay clear of coats with darts or fancy seam lines. Think of it as a big "T" shaped garment that may or may not have a collar. Simple coats from polar fleece or heavy wool may not need lining. Linings are not difficult to insert, and will add to the comfort of the garment. In this wikiHow we'll examine the first few steps to take in this project.
Steps
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Invest in suitable fabric: Be prepared to spend a minimum of $10 per yard for a wool fabric. If you want to use a fleece, you may find that at a lower cost. Cotton denim and corduroy are also suitable for most coats.
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Choose a good lining: Costs for this type of fabric can vary. Consider selecting silky blouse or skirt fabric instead of the usual plain lining sold by most stores. A printed lining is a fun addition to a solid colored coat. Stay away from stretchy fabrics, knits, and crayons.Advertisement
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Get some good interfacing: Often the pattern instructions will require fusible interfacing. This is an iron-on type of fabric 'stiffener'. Interfacing is a light-weight product that is ironed to the back side of most collars, lapels and some coat fronts to help them keep their shape.
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Choose some nice buttons: Have fun finding vintage buttons at thrift shops and yard sales to create a unique look.
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Research your pattern: Shopping for your coat pattern online will help you find a style you like. Do have someone measure you first so that you buy the correct pattern size.
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Be sure to assemble the correct notions: All of your supplies may be available online as well. Check the back of the pattern envelope for all required notions. Thread selection should match your coat. The sewing needle should be larger than average if your fabric is thick. A size 14 needle will be good for heavier fabric. If you want to add double stitching (like you see on denim), consider topstitching with a double needle. This shopping project can be done at home in your free time.
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Buy a pattern. You may decide to find your pattern online. If not, go to a craft supply, sewing, art, quilting shop, fabric store or hobby store and look for the pattern catalogs and pattern packets. Most will show a picture of the finished product so you can consider how closely it matches your inspiration. Look at the back of the pattern envelope for details in the seam lines. The back will also list sizes and fabric needs. Pattern prices can range from a dollar (at a yard sale) to about $20 for a new pattern.
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Select a pattern with a skill level that closely matches your current skills. If you are new to this project, look for a minimum of seam lines. Go for the more 'tunic' look to start. A collar with lapel is a more advanced project, but a simple standing collar can be a good way to start.
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Consider how easy or difficult it will be to modify the pattern to your own inspiration or requirements. For an easy way to change a pattern, try different colors for collar and lapel, or design the patch pocket shape.
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Select your material. For a winter coat you will need the correct weight and texture, as well as other qualities like water fastness and more.
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Open the pattern envelope and lay out the complete pattern on a large table. Read through the entire pattern. Look for any confusing, challenging, or foreign parts. Compare those steps with your sewing book. Maybe the book will have a better idea for sewing a difficult area. Be sure to research those parts before you begin!
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Cut. Lay out your paper pattern on the wool. Be sure to keep the grain line (arrows) going up/down with the wool. You can use heavy books to hold the patterns in place while you make adjustments in placement. Pin down the pieces when you have everything in place. Cut evenly, with smooth slices. Your scissors should be 8" long. Don't use dull or short shears. Some people like to label each piece after they cut with a note on the back side of the wool. This way you won't get mixed-up or loose pieces when you sew.Lay the fabric flat on a big table or a clean, smooth floor. Your pattern may require a center fold. Make this parallel to the selvage edges.
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Cut out only those pattern pieces you will be using. Pin the paper pattern together, keeping a 5/8" seam allowance. Carefully try this paper pattern on over a shirt or top. You will have a half-garment in paper. Have a friend check the fit: shoulders? back? bust/chest? length? arms? Make any tucks with pins. Clip any tight spots and widen that area with a paper patch to make it bigger. When the fit looks good, you are ready to cut your fabric.
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Follow the pattern instructions for sewing. Clip threads after each seam, backstitching each line of sewing. Press each seam open. Iron on the fusible interfacing with paper on the ironing board and over the fabric to protect the iron from the sticky residue. Take your time. Keep your pieces in order by storing them in zip lock bags. Stop when you are tired.
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Fit your coat. When the coat body is complete, try on the coat for fit. Have your friend check this. length? shoulders? chest/bust? collar? If you need to take the body in more, do this before you add the sleeves. Take in the sleeve side seam the same amount as the body side seam so they are still the same. If your coat needs shoulder pads for a classic look, put those in when you fit.
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Iron. Final pressing: Use a damp linen towel or cloth between the wool and your iron to press the coat. You may find that taking it to a dry cleaners for a pressing will be even better.Well, it's done!!!
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Expert Q&A
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QuestionHow can I sew a blanket into a coat?Mia Danilowicz is a Master Tailor who works onset and on the red carpet in Los Angeles, California. With over a decade of experience, Mia specializes in bridal and gown couturier fittings, garment reconstruction, and custom design. Mia has worked at the Oscars, Grammys, SAG Awards, and Golden Globes. Her clients include a long list of entertainment and fashion industry headliners, major fashion magazines, luxury consumer brands, and popular media. Mia was trained at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising and received her AA in Fashion Design and BS in Business Management.To transform a blanket into a coat, start by obtaining a pattern. The pattern serves as a guide to determine if there's sufficient material in the blanket for the coat. Once you've verified the adequacy of the material, cut out the pattern pieces from the blanket, ensuring to leave enough for seam allowances. If the blanket is thick, a lining may not be necessary; however, if the blanket is scratchy or wool-like, sewing in a lining can enhance comfort. After cutting the pattern pieces, proceed to sew them together. To finish your coat, add a closure such as a zipper, buttons with corresponding buttonholes, or a toggle-style closure if desired.
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QuestionWhat fabric is water and wind repellent?Anon AmouseCommunity AnswerLight weight specialty fabrics like Taslon and other engineered nylons. Search online under camping and hiking gear for brand names. Not all nylon fabrics are water repellent or water proof, so check details. Most of these are easily sewn at home with standard home sewing machines, although a specialty needle may be required since these fabrics can snag easily and dull standard needles very quickly. A titanium needle is a good bet if no special needle is needed.
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QuestionHow do I measure for a winter coat?Community AnswerMeasure around the fullest part of your chest. Keep the measure tape firmly around the armpits and shoulder blades. Measure slightly under your natural waist, where you normally wear your trousers.
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Tips
- Sewing Machine: Be sure you have your size #14 needles, and load several bobbins with the matching thread so you don't have to stop to fill them as often. Use a larger stitch for sewing thick fabrics. Increase the stitch length so that the stitches are visible. Tiny stitches may cut or ripple the fabric.Thanks
- Consider an inspirational scrapbook of all your coat ideas. This way you can go back through your ideas and see how they have evolved. Be sure to allow yourself time to brainstorm and don't self-censor. Include anything that will help you inspire your winter coat including pictures from magazines, patterns, fabrics and more. Once you have a good idea of the kind of winter coat you wish to make, you are ready to start your project.Thanks
- Preshrink Fabric: Most wools or cottons will need to be pre-shrunk. For wool you can send it to be dry cleaned, or steam it all over with a good steam iron. Cottons can be pre-washed, then pressed with steam.Thanks
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Expert Interview
Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about sewing, check out our in-depth interview with Mia Danilowicz .
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Reader Success Stories
- "The step by step was very clear. Thanks to you, I well make my coat."
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"The step by step was very clear. Thanks to you, I well make my coat."
