How to Start Dreads

Dreadlocks take advance planning, preparation, and frequent maintenance in order to create and keep healthy. If you’re thinking about starting dreads, you’ll first need to consider your hair type and the method that you’d prefer to use. Dreadlocks were designed for, and will work best in, black (African) hair, but white or Asian individuals commonly use the hairstyle as well.

Method 1
Method 1 of 3:

Backcombing to Create Dreads

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  1. You’ll need a friend to help with this method: they should use their hands or a comb to part your hair into multiple small squares. It’s up to you how many squares your friend makes. Each square will become a single dreadlock, and smaller squares make thinner dreads. Generally, 1- or 2-inch (2.5 or 5 cm) squares are preferable, though it depends on what you want. Determine what size you would like beforehand. [1]
    • Backcombing works to create dreads on hair that is already at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) long.
    • If your hair is less than three inches, plan to grow your hair before starting dreads, or use another method to create the hairstyle.
  2. The individual dreading your hair should firmly grasp the segment of hair contained within each square. Using a dread comb, firmly comb the hair back towards your head, starting with the hair about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from your scalp. As the hair begins to build up towards the roots, your friend can move farther from your scalp until they backcomb the entire strand of hair. [2]
    • You can buy a dread comb online, at a department store, or through a local hair salon or beauty supply shop.
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  3. African hair typically doesn't need to be backcombed since this usually doesn't look as good. Start off your dreads by sectioning the hair in a square, applying product and then using a dread comb to twist the entire section of hair in a spiraling motion, from the roots to the ends.
  4. This is a time-consuming process: you’ll need to wait while your friend backcombs the section of hair in each square on your head (there could be as many as 30). As they backcomb all of your hair, they can also roll the hair of each dread back and forth between their fingers. This will help pack the hair in each dread as tightly as possible. [3]
    • Be aware that you’ll lose length when you create dreads by backcombing. Plan to lose at least 1/3 or 1/2 of your hair length.
    • If you start dreads in 6 inches (15 cm) hair, the finished dreads may only be 3 inches (7.6 cm) long. [4]
  5. Once each dreadlock has been completely backcombed, secure the end of the dread with a small rubber band. You or your friend can secure another small rubber band around the root of each dread (as close to your scalp as possible) in order to prevent the base of the dread from loosening or unraveling. [5]
    • African hair has a texture which makes rubber bands unnecessary. The curliness of your hair should be enough to keep the dread from unraveling.
    • Any variety of rubber band will work: check an office supply store and purchase the smallest, thinnest set of rubber bands available.
  6. After each dread has been fully backcombed and has rubber bands at the tip and base, it’s time to wax the dreads. Have your friend liberally apply a dread wax to each of your new locks. This will help restrain loose ends on each dread, and will help the hair form proper dreadlocks quickly. For safety reasons, it’s best if the wax you use does not contain petroleum. [6]
    • You’ll probably be able to purchase dread wax at the same location you bought the dread comb. Look in online retailers—including online hair salons—drug stores, beauty parlors, or large department stores.
    • Even after having been waxed, it will take dreads 3–4 months to reach maturity. [7]
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Method 2
Method 2 of 3:

Starting Dreads with Strand Twists

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  1. As with the backcombing method, you’ll first need to part your hair into multiple small square sections. Once the squares are made, divide the hair from each square into two sections (you can also make three sections, although that requires more complex twisting). [8] You can separate the sections using small hair clips or rubber bands.
    • Twists are an effective way to begin dreadlocks in longer or highly-textured hair. You only need to start with at least 4 inches (10 cm) of hair for this to work. [9]
    • While twists are an effective way to start dreads in black hair, they do not work well in white hair since they will unravel easily. [10]
  2. This thick gel-like substance will help the large strands of hair cohere, and will encourage the dreadlocks to form more quickly. Before you start twisting the strands, make sure that each is fully covered with a thin layer of dread cream. [11] Additional cream provides no added benefit, so you don’t need to slather each strand.
    • You can purchase dread cream or wax at a local hair or beauty salon, online through large retailers, or at a local drug store or department store.
  3. At this point you’re ready to twist the strands. Begin by taking each strand of hair: twist it three or four turns counterclockwise. Once you’ve twisted a set of two strands (from the same square of hair), you can twist the strands together. Pass one strand clockwise over the other two or three times. This will form a large natural hair spiral. [12]
    • Once the two strands of hair have been twisted together, secure the lock together (at both the tip and the base) with a hair clip or rubber band.
    • Due to the different directions that the strands have been twisted, the sections of hair will begin to lock together and form dreadlocks.
  4. The strand twist method of forming dreadlocks takes time: the strands can take anywhere from 6 months to 2 years to blend together and give the appearance of a single, solid dreadlock. [13] During this time you should wash the dreadlocks no more than once or twice a week.
    • As the locks mature, it’s important to keep them tightly rolled.
    • If dreadlocks begin to unravel at the ends, re-roll the dread (using a comb or your hands) so that the strands stay tightly woven.
    • As new hair grows, you should avoid re-doing the strand twists, as this will lengthen the time needed for dreadlocks to form.
    • You can dread new hair by twisting the hair at the roots to meet with the nearest dreadlock.
    EXPERT TIP

    Ndeye Anta Niang

    Hair Stylist & Master Braider
    Ndeye Anta Niang is a Hair Stylist, Master Braider, and Founder of AntaBraids, a traveling braiding service based in New York City. Ndeye has over 20 years of experience in African hair including braiding box braids, Senegalese twists, crochet braids, faux dread locs, goddess locs, kinky twists, and lakhass braids. Ndeye was the first female of her tribe in Africa to move to America and is now sharing her knowledge of African braids passed on from generation to generation.
    Ndeye Anta Niang
    Hair Stylist & Master Braider

    Twist or braid short kinky hair to start baby dreads that will lengthen. If your hair is short and kinky, begin dreads by twisting small sections to make baby dreads. As your hair grows out, the dreads will lengthen on their own. For softer hair, try braiding with a small elastic at first to kickstart the dreading process before taking the bands out. This flexible approach lets all hair types start forming neat dreads.

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Method 3
Method 3 of 3:

Letting Dreadlocks Form Naturally

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  1. This method of forming dreadlocks does not work with shorter hair. Your hair will need to have substantial length in order to form natural dreadlocks. This process also takes time: it can take at least three years for naturally made dreadlocks to form. [14]
    • Natural dreadlocks will only form for individuals with natural afro-textured hair.
  2. In order for your hair to form natural dreadlocks, it should first be clean. While various rumors may imply that hair needs to be unwashed—or even deliberately soiled—in order for dreads to form, this is untrue. Your hair makes its own oils, which are necessary for healthy hair, but too much of these oils will prevent hair from forming dreadlocks. [15]
    • Once you start naturally growing dreadlocks, you should take a two-week break from washing your hair, to avoid breaking the locks apart.
    • After this two-week period, begin regularly washing your hair again, once or twice a week.
  3. This is the central step to forming natural dreadlocks: you’ll need to resist the temptation to brush or comb your hair, and let your hair naturally bind itself together. It’s difficult to predict the growth form of natural dreadlocks; unlike other methods, you will not be able to guide or control the shape of your dreadlocks. [16]
    • It’s possible to make minor adjustments to naturally-formed dreads, however.
    • For example, if your hair develops a thin dreadlock, you can combine this into a larger dread using rubber bands and dread cream. [17]
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    How long does it take to make a dread?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist based in Milledgeville, Georgia. She has been working as a hair stylist since 2007, and began a career as a cosmetology teacher in 2013. She worked as a teacher at Arrojo Cosmetology School, teaching cosmetology practices, hairstyling, and hair color application. She also brought her cosmetology expertise to her work as a staff writer for fashion blog Style Noted, writing pieces related to hair and fashion. She received an MFA in Creative Writing from Georgia College & State University, where she was also an English Teaching Fellow. Additionally, she received a BA in Creative Writing and Literature from New York University.
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    Depending on hair texture, dexterity, and skill a single dread takes anywhere from 1-5 minutes to produce.
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  • Question
    Can a person with straight hair get dreadlocks?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist based in Milledgeville, Georgia. She has been working as a hair stylist since 2007, and began a career as a cosmetology teacher in 2013. She worked as a teacher at Arrojo Cosmetology School, teaching cosmetology practices, hairstyling, and hair color application. She also brought her cosmetology expertise to her work as a staff writer for fashion blog Style Noted, writing pieces related to hair and fashion. She received an MFA in Creative Writing from Georgia College & State University, where she was also an English Teaching Fellow. Additionally, she received a BA in Creative Writing and Literature from New York University.
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    Yes, but they are more likely to slip out in the early stages. Getting a perm before dreading the hair can help create more stable locks.
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  • Question
    Can you recommend creative styles for dreads?
    Ndeye Anta Niang
    Hair Stylist & Master Braider
    Ndeye Anta Niang is a Hair Stylist, Master Braider, and Founder of AntaBraids, a traveling braiding service based in New York City. Ndeye has over 20 years of experience in African hair including braiding box braids, Senegalese twists, crochet braids, faux dread locs, goddess locs, kinky twists, and lakhass braids. Ndeye was the first female of her tribe in Africa to move to America and is now sharing her knowledge of African braids passed on from generation to generation.
    Ndeye Anta Niang
    Hair Stylist & Master Braider
    Expert Answer
    You can curl your dreads in the same way that you curl your braids. You can also use rollers to make them wavy. You can even use jewelry to cornrow it in different designs. And if you have long dreads, you can even do a ponytail style.
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      Tips

      • There are a number of good dreadlock tutorial videos online. If you’re having trouble starting your dreads, refer to one of these for a useful visual aid. [18]
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      • There is no effective way to undo or clean dreadlocks once they’ve formed in your hair. To remove the dreads, you’ll have to cut them off, as closely to your scalp as possible.
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      • Once you have created the dreadlocks, you can dye the tips or decorate the dreads with beads for a stylish look.
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      References

      1. ↑ http://www.dreadlocks.com/methods.html
      2. ↑ http://www.dreadlocks.com/methods.html
      3. ↑ http://www.dreadlocks.com/methods.html
      4. ↑ http://www.knottyboy.com/lore/idx.php/9/0/Starting-Dreadlocks.html
      5. ↑ http://www.dreadlocks.com/methods.html
      6. ↑ http://www.dreadlocks.com/methods.html
      7. ↑ http://www.knottyboy.com/lore/idx.php/9/0/Starting-Dreadlocks.html
      8. ↑ https://www.knattydread.com/pages/2-3-strand-twist-dreads
      9. ↑ http://curlynugrowth.com/7-methods-to-start-locs-drawbacks-what-to-expect/
      1. ↑ http://www.knottyboy.com/lore/idx.php/9/0/Starting-Dreadlocks.html
      2. ↑ https://www.knattydread.com/pages/2-3-strand-twist-dreads
      3. ↑ https://www.knattydread.com/pages/2-3-strand-twist-dreads
      4. ↑ http://curlynugrowth.com/7-methods-to-start-locs-drawbacks-what-to-expect/
      5. ↑ http://www.dreadlocks.com/methods.html
      6. ↑ http://www.knottyboy.com/lore/idx.php/9/0/Starting-Dreadlocks.html
      7. ↑ http://curlynugrowth.com/7-methods-to-start-locs-drawbacks-what-to-expect/
      8. ↑ http://www.dreadlocks.com/methods.html
      9. ↑ http://www.knottyboy.com/lore/idx.php/9/0/Starting-Dreadlocks.html

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To start dreads, start by sectioning your hair into small squares, with 1 square for each dreadlock you want. Then, take a section of your hair, and comb from the end of it toward your scalp. If you have naturally curly hair, you may not need to backcomb it. Next, repeat the process for each square section, rolling the sections of hair between your fingers as you go. Finally, fasten the ends of the dreadlocks with rubber bands, and apply a dread wax to each strand. For more advice from our Cosmetology co-author, like how to start dreads using strand twists, scroll down!

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