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Whether you've purchased a new tent or want to protect the canvas cover on your boat, you will want to waterproof fabric to extend its luster and lifespan. This article will teach you how to waterproof fabric using wax, commercial spray, and other items.

Method 1
Method 1 of 6:

Using Waterproofing Sprays and Seam Sealers

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  1. You will be working with spray-on sealers, which are sensitive to humidity. Also, if you are working outside and it is windy, you might get some dust embedded in your fabric.
  2. If the fabric cannot be washed, and it is only dusty or lightly soiled fabrics then clean it a vacuum or a brush. If the fabric is heavily soiled, then use a specially-formulated fabric cleaner.
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  3. You will be working sprays and sealers that repel water. If your fabric is in anyway damp or wet, the sprays and sealers will not stick.
  4. Try to work outside, if you can. If you cannot work outside, then open up a window. You can also wear safety goggles and gloves if you have sensitive skin or bad allergies; the sprays and sealers you will be working with can be quite pungent.
  5. [1] You can find them at an outdoor or camping supply store. If the fabric you will be waterproofing will be outside and in the sun a lot, then consider getting a spray that has UV protection as well. This will keep your fabric from fading.
    • Waterproofing sprays and sealers will work great on nylons, canvas and leather.
  6. Hold the can 6 to 8 inches (15.24 to 20.32 centimeters) away from the surface of the fabric and apply the sealer in a light, even layer. Be sure to slightly overlap each stroke.
  7. Let the spray dry completely before using the fabric. Most waterproofing sprays will dry in about 4 hours, but you might want to read the directions on the can as each brand will be a little different.
  8. Seam sealer usually comes in a small bottle with an applicator on top. Simply roll the sealer over the seams while squeezing gently on the bottle. This will make the seams extra durable and ensure that no water gets inside. [2]
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Method 2
Method 2 of 6:

Using Laundry Detergent and Alum

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  1. If the fabric you are working with is dirty, then wash it. For dusty or lightly soiled fabrics that cannot be washed, use a vacuum or a brush. For heavily soiled fabrics that cannot be washed, use a specially-formulated fabric cleaner.
  2. You want the container to be large enough so that you can submerge all of your fabric in the detergent mixture.
  3. If parts of the fabric keep floating to the top, you can weigh them down with a glass jar or bottle.
  4. Do not fold it over a hanger, or the two sides will stick to each other. Instead, clip the top of the fabric piece to a hanger. If the fabric is too big for a hanger, then stretch a long piece of string between two poles or trees, and clip the fabric to that. You want the fabric to hang freely, in a single layer.
  5. Stir the solution to help the alum powder dissolve. You can buy alum powder at a grocery store.
  6. [3] Make sure that the fabric is completely submerged. If it floats to the top, then weigh it down with a glass jar or bottle.
  7. Once again, make sure that the fabric is hanging freely. Clip it to a hanger, or to a piece of string.
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Method 3
Method 3 of 6:

Using Turpentine and Soybean Oil

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  1. You will be saturating the fabric with turpentine-diluted oil. Oil in general tends to darken fabrics by a shade or two. This is something you might want to keep in mind.
  2. Wash the fabric if it is dirty. If the fabric cannot be washed, and it's only a little dirty or dusty, then clean it with a vacuum or a brush. If the fabric cannot be washed and it is heavily soiled, then clean it using a specially-formulated fabric cleaner.
  3. You will be working with waxes, oils, and other solutions that repel water. If your fabric is in anyway damp or wet, the solutions you will be using will not stick.
  4. Try to work outside, if you can. If you cannot work outside, then keep a window open. Turpentine can get quite pungent.
  5. Pour everything into a durable plastic container and stir it with a wooden paint stirrer. You will be painting the mixture onto your fabric later using a large paintbrush.
    • If you are working on a small piece of fabric, then you can pour everything into a plastic spray bottle and spray it on. Close the bottle and shake it to mix everything together.
  6. Turpentine and oil can both stain porous surfaces such as wood and concrete. If you are worried about this, you might want to protect your work surface with plastic tablecloth first. Don't use newspaper. The ink can transfer to your fabric.
  7. Dip a large paintbrush into the mixture, and wipe the excess mixture off on the rim of the bucket. Brush the mixture onto the fabric using a long, straight, even stroke. Keep brushing the mixture onto the fabric until everything is covered. Always go in the same direction. Also, try to overlap the strokes by a little; this will prevent any gaps.
    • A wide, flat bristle brush will work the best for this. Avoid soft bristles, such as camel hair.
    • If you are using a spray bottle, then simply spray the mixture onto the fabric. Try to overlap the patches by a little to avoid any gaps.
  8. This can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days. Once again, turpentine and soybean oil can both cause stains, so it might be a good idea to cover the flat surface with a plastic tablecloth first.
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Method 4
Method 4 of 6:

Using Iron-On Vinyl

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  1. [4] This vinyl doesn't change the appearance of the fabric, and is great for waterproofing baby bibs and lunch bags.
  2. Once you have waterproofed the fabric, you can use it as a tablecloth, or even cut it up and sew it into a lunch bag.
  3. If the fabric you are working with is dirty, then wash it, and let it dry completely.
    • If the fabric cannot be washed, then use a vacuum or a brush. You can also use a specially-formulated fabric cleaner if the fabric is heavily soiled.
  4. This will make the fabric easier to work with. Any ripples or folds will end up as wrinkles in the finished piece. If necessary, iron the fabric out to get it as smooth as possible.
  5. If the vinyl is too narrow for your fabric, then you will need to cut the vinyl to the length of your fabric. You will need to cut several pieces like this, and overlap them later on.
  6. You will notice that the paper has two sides: a shiny side and a dull side. You will also notice that the vinyl has two sides as well: a sticky side and a smooth side.
  7. If the vinyl is not wide enough, lay two sheets of vinyl next to each other. Overlap the edges by ¼ inch (0.64 centimeter). [5]
  8. Make sure that the shiny side of the paper is facing down, and that the paper is covering the vinyl entirely. You will be ironing the vinyl, and the paper will help protect it from getting melted.
  9. Turn on your iron and set it to medium heat. Do not use a high heat setting, or you will melt the vinyl. Carefully run the iron over the paper. Do not leave it in one spot for too long, and do not use any steam.
  10. The heat of the iron will have melted the glue on the vinyl, and fused it to the fabric.
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Method 5
Method 5 of 6:

Rubbing Wax onto Fabric

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  1. If the fabric you are working with is dirty, then wash it and let it dry completely. This method will work best on canvas shoes and bags.
  2. You might want to use pure beeswax for this, without any additives. Anything else may contain harmful chemicals.
  3. You can do this by blowing them with a hairdryer or leaving them out in the hot sun for a few minutes. This will make the wax easier to apply. You do not want the clothes to be hot, and you do not want the wax to be melted. [6]
  4. Rub it side-to-side and up-and-down. This will help the wax get into the weave of the fabric. [7] If you are covering a piece of clothing or a bag, use the corners of the wax to get into small seams and spaces.
  5. Gently rub the wax into small, tight areas, such as seams, corners, and pockets. If the item you are covering has buttons, make sure to wipe the wax off.
  6. This will allow the wax to melt into the fabric. You will see the fabric becoming a little darker. [8]
  7. If there are any pools or puddles of wax, run your fingers across the fabric in circular motions to smooth it out. This will give your piece a nice finish.
  8. Leave it there for 24 hours. [9] After this time, the waxed article will be ready to use. You may notice that the fabric is a little stiffer and darker than before. This is normal. The fabric will soften with time, but it won't get lighter again.
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Method 6
Method 6 of 6:

Using Linseed Oil

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  1. If the fabric is dirty, you will need to wash it and let it dry completely.
  2. Linseed oil can get pungent, so the extra ventilation might help keep you from feeling lightheaded. If you are working outside, make sure that the area is free of dust and that there is no wind, or you might end up with dust particles embedded in your finished piece. If you cannot work outside, then make sure that you have a window open.
  3. You can use a cheap picture frame with the glass and cardboard backing taken out. Make sure that the fabric covers the entire frame. If the fabric is too big for the frame, then you will need to work on it in parts.
  4. You can also use jojoba oil. It is a little lighter than linseed oil, which might make it easier to work with. [10]
  5. You want the fabric to be completely saturated with the oil. Don't worry if it feels like you are using too much; you will be wiping the excess off. You can apply the oil with a wide, boar bristle paintbrush or with a rag.
    • Avoid using a brush made from camel hair. The soft bristles will be too weak to spread the oil.
    • If the oil came in a small bottle, then consider pouring it into a large cup,
  6. This will give the oil enough time to soak into the fabric and saturate it. After this time, you may notice some residue on the surface of the fabric. Use a clean cloth to wipe it off.
  7. [11] Once the fabric has dried, get out your linseed oil again, and apply more of it to the fabric. Wait 30 minutes, then wipe the excess oil off using a clean rag. You can add one or two more layers.
  8. Use an oil painting paintbrush to apply the oil paint. These brushes are usually made out of stiff bristles, such as boar bristles or Taklon, which is synthetic. Apply the linseed oil with a brush instead of a rag so that you do not blur your design. [12]
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Expert Q&A

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Add New Question
  • Question
    Is there a spray to waterproof fabric?
    Alessio Iadicicco
    Apparel Manufacturing Specialist
    Alessio Iadicicco is an Apparel Manufacturing Specialist based in Dallas, Texas. He was the CEO and Co-Founder of MarkersValley, an online apparel and manufacturer sourcing platform that connects luxury fashion brands to a network of highly-vetted, truly Italian manufacturers. After 6 years building MarkersValley, he transitioned into a career as a SBA Lender, currently working as VP of the SBA Business Development Office at U.S. Bank. Through this role, he helps small business owners secure the SBA funding they need to thrive. He holds a Bachelor's degree in Economy and Management of Financial Enterprises from The University of Naples Federico II. MarkersValley has connected fashion brands in over 100 countries and has a network of over 100 independent Italian factories and artisans. MarkersValley has been featured in Forbes, EQ, St. Louis Business Journal, Il Mattino, and Corriere Della Sera.
    Apparel Manufacturing Specialist
    Expert Answer
    Yes, there is a water-proofing spray that you can use. If you aren't a fan of sprays, try an iron-on thermo-adhesive vinyl to make your fabric waterproof.
  • Question
    How do alum and detergent make the fabric waterproof?
    Community Answer
    Aluminum ions react with long chain acids of the detergent to form aluminum 'soap,' This is not water-soluble and thus makes the fabric water-repelling.
  • Question
    Any recommendations for a washable drop cloth? I'm making a giant puppy pad.
    Community Answer
    Many drop cloths can be purchased with a waterproof sealant already coated on one or both sides. The coating comes off after a few washes, but that would be the case with all other methods of coating such cloths, and this may save you the extra work.
See more answers
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      Tips

      • If you are working with wax and the smell bothers you, wait until the wax is dry, then stick the fabric into the freezer and leave it there overnight. [13]
      • Wax can wear off after a while. If this happens, simply reapply it to the fabric.
      • Lard can be put on leather shoes to help waterproof, but it needs to be reapplied every time you wear the shoes out in the rain or snow. Rub it in well.
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      Warnings

      • Do not wash wax-covered fabric in warm water. Spot-clean it with cold water only.
      • Dispose of the turpentine according to your local sanitation regulations. Do not pour turpentine down a household or street-side drain.
      • Turpentine and spray sealers can be pungent. If you start to get a headache while using it, pause your work and get some fresh air. Try to work in a well-ventilated area.
      • Do not leave wax-covered fabric in the sun or near heat. The wax will soften and become sticky.
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      Things You'll Need

      Using Iron-On Vinyl

      • Fabric
      • Iron-on vinyl
      • Iron

      Using Waterproofing Sprays and Seam Sealers

      • Fabric
      • Waterproofing spray
      • Waterproofing sealer

      Using Laundry Detergent and Alum

      • Fabric
      • 1 pound (0.45 kg) laundry detergent
      • 2 gallons (7.5 L) water
      • Plastic bucket

      Using Turpentine and Soybean Oil

      • Fabric
      • 1 cup (237 ml) soybean oil
      • 4 ounces (118 ml) of turpentine
      • Durable plastic container
      • Wooden stirring stick
      • Wide bristle paintbrush
      • Plastic tablecloth (optional)

      Rubbing Fabric with Wax

      • Fabric
      • Bar of natural beeswax
      • Hairdryer

      Using Linseed Oil

      • Fabric
      • Open-back frame
      • Clips
      • Linseed oil or jojoba oil
      • Wide bristle paintbrush or rag
      • Clean cloth to wipe excess oil
      • Oil paint and oil paintbrush (optional)

      References

      1. Alessio Iadicicco. Apparel Manufacturing Specialist. Expert Interview. 16 June 2021.
      2. Trails, How to Waterproof Fabrics
      3. Trails, How to Waterproof Fabrics
      4. Alessio Iadicicco. Apparel Manufacturing Specialist. Expert Interview. 16 June 2021.
      5. See Kate Sew, Make Your Own Laminate Fabric
      6. The Art of Manliness, How to Wax Your Own Clothing and Gear
      7. The Long Thread
      8. Brit + Co, Life Lessons: How to Waterproof Your Shoes
      9. The Art of Manliness, How to Wax Your Own Clothing and Gear

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      You can use wax to waterproof clothes, canvas shoes, and other fabrics. First, add 4 ounces (115 grams) of beeswax and 4 ounces (115 grams) of paraffin wax to a double boiler and heat the waxes until they melt. In the meantime, tumble dry the fabric you want to waterproof so it’s warm. Next, brush a thick layer of the wax onto the warmed-up fabric using a paintbrush, one small section at a time. Turn a blow dryer on high and point it at the wax until it melts into the fabric. Let the fabric cool, then apply a second layer of wax if there are any uneven spots. Finally, let the wax cure for 24 hours. You can also waterproof fabric using a waterproofing spray. Just spray the fabric when it’s dry until it’s completely covered, then apply a second coat a few hours later. For extra protection, apply seam sealer to all of the seams so no water gets through them. To waterproof your fabric using wax, read on!

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