15 Reasons Your Whirlpool Refrigerator Has Stopped Cooling

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Troubleshooting common cooling issues with your Whirlpool fridge
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Does it seem like your Whirlpool fridge isn’t keeping your food as cold as it should? Luckily, there are a few things you can do to troubleshoot and possibly fix your refrigerator. This wikiHow article covers the most common causes of cooling problems in a Whirlpool and what to do about them. If you need more information about your specific model, you can find the manual on the Whirlpool website .

Troubleshooting Common Issues

If your refrigerator isn’t cooling right, check that it’s installed correctly and receiving power. If so, make sure the thermostat is set to the right temperature, between 32–40 °F (0–4 °C). Examine the air vents for obstructions and test if the door is sealing properly. If your fridge still isn’t working, there might be a mechanical problem.

1

There is no power to the refrigerator.

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    Make sure your refrigerator is firmly plugged into an electrical outlet. Check your breakers or fuse box to make sure a breaker hasn't popped or a fuse isn't blown.
    • Your Whirlpool fridge needs to be plugged into a properly grounded 3-prong 120v outlet. Ideally, it should be on its own dedicated circuit to avoid overloading your circuit breaker.
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2

The temperature isn't set properly.

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    Your refrigerator should be set between 32–40 °F (0–4 °C) and your freezer should be set to between 0–5 °F (−18 – −15 °C). Check the panel on your refrigerator to make sure the temperature is set properly. If you’re not sure how to set the temperature, check the user manual for your model of Whirlpool fridge.
    • By default, Whirlpool fridges are set to a middle temperature setting that is usually correct for regular use inside a home. However, if your fridge is in a hot environment, you might need to adjust the temperature. [1]
    • To make your fridge colder, adjust it to the next higher cooling setting. Wait about 24 hours between making adjustments, since it could take a while for the new temperature setting to fully kick in.
3

The cooling function may be turned off.

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    If the power recently went out or if your fridge stopped working after you cleaned it, it’s possible you need to manually turn the cooling function back on. The method for turning your Whirlpool’s cooling on and off varies depending on the model, so check your user manual for more info. [2]
    • For example, on some models, you can turn cooling on or off by holding the SMART GRID and FILTER buttons on your control panel at the same time. [3]
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4

The airflow control settings may be incorrect.

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    By default, your Whirlpool will be set to the “Recommended” airflow setting distribute cool air evenly throughout the freezer and refrigerator. But there are times you may need to adjust the setting due to how you’re using your fridge. You’ll find the airflow control on the back wall of the freezer. [4]
    • If you’re using more ice than usual or the room temperature is especially hot, set the airflow dial to “Max”.
    • If you’ve just put an unusually large quantity of groceries in your fridge, set the dial to “Min.”
    • Once your fridge reaches the desired temperature, set the airflow control back to “Recommended.”
5

Your refrigerator is not properly installed.

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    Your refrigerator should have at least .5 inches (1.3 cm) of clearance on the sides and 1 inch (2.5 cm) in the back. Place a level on the floor the refrigerator sits on to make sure the refrigerator is on a level surface. If the refrigerator is not on a level surface, you may need to install shims below the feet to make it level. [5] #*Also, make sure the refrigerator is not next to a heat source, such as an oven or heater vent. Make sure the room isn't too hot. [6]
    • Avoid installing your refrigerator inside a cabinet or other small, enclosed space. Make sure the grille at the bottom isn’t blocked.
    • Most Whirlpool fridges are also designed for use in indoor spaces, so your fridge might not cool properly if you have it outside or inside a space that isn’t temperature-controlled (like a garage).
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6

The air vents are blocked.

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    Locate the air vents in both your refrigerator and freezer. Make sure nothing is blocking them and obstructing airflow. If your refrigerator or freezer is too tightly packed with food, it could be obstructing airflow and interfering with cooling. Rearrange your food storage if it is too tightly packed. [7]
7

The door isn't sealing properly.

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    If your refrigerator or freezer doors aren't sealing properly, cool air can escape from your refrigerator. To test your door seals, place a piece of paper under the door seal and close the door. Pull the paper out and see if there is any resistance. If you can easily pull the paper out without any resistance, the door seal has failed and needs to be replaced .
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8

The condenser coils are dirty.

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    The condenser coils are generally on the bottom of the refrigerator. Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged. Pull it away from the wall and unscrew the vent in the back. Use a vacuum to clean dust from the vent and condenser fan in the back. Then remove the guard from below the doors in the front. Check for any large clumps of dirt or lint and clean them out. Use a vacuum with a hose attachment to clean the condenser coils.
    • Warning: There is a risk of electrical shock while cleaning your condenser coils. Make sure your refrigerator is unplugged.
    • Some refrigerators don't require the condenser coils to be cleaned. On other models, they can only be cleaned by a repair technician. Check your Whirlpool fridge’s manual for information about your model.
    • While it’s not usually necessary to clean your fridge’s condenser coils, you might need to clean them occasionally if the refrigerator is in an especially dirty, dusty, or greasy location. In these cases, Whirlpool recommends cleaning the coils once every 2 to 3 months. [8]
9

The temperature sensor isn't working.

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    Depending on your refrigerator model, the temperature sensor may be mounted to the side wall, behind the rear compartment panel, or attached to the evaporator in the refrigerator and freezer. To test it:
    • Unplug your refrigerator and disconnect the temperature sensor. Use a multimeter to test for resistance .
      • Check to see if the sensor has an ohm rating listed on the device. If it does not, start and the lowest setting on the multimeter and rotate the dial until you get a reading.
    • If you get no ohms of resistance, the temperature sensor will need to be replaced. Once you get a reading, heat up the temperature sensor with a hair dryer and see if the reading changes. If it does not change, the temperature sensor is likely defective. [9]
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10

The fans aren't working.

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    A refrigerator generally has two fans: the condenser fan and the evaporator fan. The condenser fan is located in the back or front of the refrigerator at the base. The evaporator fan is located inside the refrigerator behind a vent. To check the fans:
    • Unplug the refrigerator and remove the fan covers. Rotate the fans and make sure they rotate freely. If they do not, check for any obstructions.
    • If there are no obstructions, the motor barring may be bad. If the fan rotates freely but does not turn on, the motor may be defective, in which case, it'll need to be replaced. You can test the motors using a multimeter . [10] [11]
11

The start capacitor is bad.

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    The start capacitor is usually attached to the start relay on the side of the compressor. It's shaped like a large cylinder. The compressor is usually stored in the back of the refrigerator at the base. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the access panel. Be careful not to touch any exposed metal terminals. Detach the capacitor wires and check the side of the capacitor for multimeter settings. Use a multimeter to test the capacitor.
    • Warning: Even if the refrigerator is unplugged, the capacitor may still hold an electrical charge. Be careful not to touch the terminals the capacitor is connected to.
      • You can discharge the capacitor by touching a pair of pliers to the terminals. Make sure you hold the rubber handle and not the metal part of the pliers.
    • On some refrigerator models, the capacitor is mounted to the start relay. If this is the case, you will need to remove the mounting bracket and detach the capacitor from the start relay.
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12

The start relay is defective.

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    The start relay is usually attached to the condenser motor in the back of the refrigerator. A burnt smell coming from the refrigerator usually indicates the start relay is defective. Unplug the refrigerator and disconnect the start relay from the motor. If you don't smell a burnt smell, use a multimeter to test for continuity and test the resistance . It should have between 3 to 12 ohms of resistance. If there is no continuity or the resistance is too high, the start relay will need to be replaced. [12]
    • Warning: Even if the refrigerator is unplugged, the capacitor that is attached to the start relay may still hold an electrical charge. Be careful not to touch the terminals the capacitor is connected to.
      • You can discharge the capacitor by touching a pair of pliers to the terminals. Make sure you hold the rubber handle and not the metal part of the pliers.
13

The compressor is bad.

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    If you hear a loud noise when the compressor starts up, or your refrigerator is leaking fluid, that could mean the compressor has gone bad. If your compressor is bad, it will need to be replaced, though it may be cheaper to get a new refrigerator. You can also use a multimeter to test the resistance in ohms between the three pins that stick out of the compressor. You'll need to take three tests, testing each set of pins side by side. Write down the numbers. Your measurements should be one of the following:
    • Older models: Add up the two smaller numbers from your measurements. The total resistance should add up to the larger number.
    • Newer inverter compressors: All three measurements should be same.
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14

The inverter board is bad.

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    Some refrigerators have a variable-speed compressor with an inverter board attached to it. It's usually in a large box. The inverter box is not easy to test, but you can test it through a process of elimination. [13]
    • The inverter board has two power supply wires attached from the main control board. Test both lines with a multimeter. One should have a 120V AC input. The other should have between 4-15V DC.
    • If one of the power lines is bad, the problem is most likely with the control board. If both power supply lines are working, and all the rest of the compressor components are working, the inverter board has most likely failed. You will need to replace the inverter board.
15

The main control board isn't working.

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    If everything else is working, check the main control board. You can usually access the main control board through a panel on the back of the refrigerator. Check to see if any of the electronic components are damaged (i.e., capacitors leaking or bulging, discolored resistors). [14]
    • Other signs that the control board could be bad are an unresponsive front panel or no lights in the refrigerator. If the control board is bad, you will need to order a new one and replace it.
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      Tips

      • If your fridge was recently installed, or if the door was left standing open for a while, it may simply need time to cool down to the correct temperature. Check again in a few hours. [15]
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      • Before disconnecting any wires while attempting a repair, take a picture of them with your phone. That way you will know how to reconnect the wires after installing the replacement part.
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      Warnings

      • Attempting a repair by yourself runs the risk of a severe electrical shock. If you are not comfortable performing a repair by yourself, contact a qualified repair technician.
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      • If you just installed your Whirlpool refrigerator, wait 24 hours before putting food in it. It may take a full day for the fridge to cool completely, and putting food in too early can lead to spoilage.
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      References

      1. ↑ https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Troubleshooter?thispageid=11578
      2. ↑ https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Troubleshooter?thispageid=11578#contentSection
      3. ↑ https://www.whirlpool.com/content/dam/global/documents/201304/owners-manual-W10439277-RevC.pdf
      4. ↑ https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Troubleshooter?thispageid=11578#contentSection
      5. ↑ https://wobblewedges.com/blog/how-to-level-a-refrigerator/
      6. ↑ https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Troubleshooter?thispageid=11578
      7. ↑ https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Refrigeration/Full-Size_Refrigerators/Product_Info/Tips_and_Tricks/How_to_Check_the_Air_Vents_for_Blockage_-_Ensuring_Proper_Air_Flow
      8. ↑ https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Refrigeration/Full-Size_Refrigerators/Product_Info/Cleaning_and_Care/How_and_When_to_Safely_Clean_the_Condenser_Coils
      9. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11n8yunNhjc
      1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8dShjmHWD0
      2. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdG1opcgb50
      3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhqdE_uqSuc
      4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYIC7LMkKak&t=320s
      5. ↑ https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Refrigerator/51-5--/Whirlpool-Refrigerator-Not-Cooling
      6. ↑ https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Troubleshooter?thispageid=11578

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