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Plus, how to tell when you need to replace your toilet’s wax seal
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A wax toilet seal can typically last for years, but if you’ve noticed any leaks around your toilet base, it may be time to replace it. Luckily, this repair job is easy to do with the help of a friend. We interviewed plumber Dave Jones to teach you all the steps to properly fix a toilet seal. Plus, learn the signs your seal needs to be replaced and get answers to other common questions about fixing toilet seals.
Toilet Seal Replacement: Quick Overview
- Turn off the water supply and drain the toilet of all water.
- Disconnect the toilet and move it to a safe space.
- Scrape the old wax seal off with a putty knife.
- Place the new wax seal on top of the toilet flange.
- Reinstall the toilet and flush it to check for leaks.
Steps
Section 1 of 4:
Removing the Toilet
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Turn off the water supply and empty the toilet. The water supply valve will either be located behind the toilet or in the crawlspace or basement space directly beneath the toilet. Turn the valve clockwise to turn off the water supply, then remove the toilet lid and flush the toilet to drain it . Remove any water left in the bowl with a sponge or force it down the drain with a plunger. [1] X Research source
- You can also use a plastic cup to scoop out water in the bowl, then dry the last drops of moisture with a towel or dry sponge. Or, use a water solidifier to temporarily solidify the remaining water.
- Jones says, “If it’s an older style gate valve, it will require several turns before it closes. If it’s a quarter-turn ball valve, it [will] only require turning the valve one quarter of a 360-degree turn.”
- When you remove the tank lid, Jones recommends “[Placing] it in a safe spot where it won’t be broken or tripped over.”
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Disconnect the water supply line. Detach the water supply line hose from the toilet fill valve and the 3/8 compression nut by turning the compression nut in a counterclockwise direction. This can usually be done by hand, but if you’re unable to loosen the connection, use a wrench or pair of pliers. Disconnecting the water supply line will help when resetting the toilet after the wax seal is placed. [2] X Research source
- Consider replacing the water supply line hose whenever you replace the wax seal to keep your toilet in good working condition.
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Remove the nuts and washers from the bolts. Insert a flathead screwdriver under the caps of the bolts and washers and gently pry them upwards. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the bolts, being careful not to use too much pressure, then remove the nuts and washers from the bolts at the toilet base. If the bolt spins as you turn the nut, hold the bolt with a pair of pliers in your non-dominant hand. [3] X Research source
- Some covers just twist off, so try turning the caps counterclockwise first.
- If you use too much pressure when loosening the bolts, you could bend or break the toilet flange or chip or crack the china.
- If the bolts have corroded, apply penetrating oil and let it sit for a few minutes before loosening the bolts.
- If you aren’t planning on installing new bolts, nuts, and washers, store them in a safe place so they don’t get lost while you’re working.
- If the toilet is caulked to the finished floor of your bathroom, score the caulking with a utility knife as well.
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Break the wax seal and lift the toilet. Toilets are heavy, so it’s a good idea to have someone to help you. Hold the toilet under the bowl and gently rock it back and forth to break the old wax seal. Then, carefully lift the toilet up, keeping the base parallel to the floor. Gently set it down on a piece of cardboard or in the bathtub to protect your floors. [4] X Research source
- The bottom of the toilet will likely have wax from the seal, so don’t set it on cloth or anything you wouldn’t want to throw away.
- If you’re working in an awkward space or the toilet is too heavy to lift, consider removing the bolts that attach the tank to the bowl and move each piece separately.
- To lift the toilet safely, Jones says, “Stand up and grasp the front of the bowl and the back of the tank while keeping your back straight. Begin lifting the toilet straight upward, using your legs to lift. The toilet should come free of the bolts and the old wax ring that sealed it to the toilet flange at the floor.”
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Section 2 of 4:
Replacing the Wax Seal & Reinstalling the Toilet
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Scrape the old wax seal off the base of the toilet. Put on a pair of waterproof cleaning gloves and use a putty knife to scrape the wax seal off the base of the toilet and the toilet flange. Remove any caulk from the base and finished flooring, as well. [5] X Research source
- After removing the old seal, it’s a good idea to stuff the drain with old rags or a towel, as an unplugged drain can release noxious sewer gas into your home.
- Jones says to “clean the toilet flange using an effective household cleaner and an old rag. If the flange is bent or damaged, you will need to replace it before installing the new toilet.”
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Replace the toilet flange bolts (optional). If you’re installing new toilet bolts, now is the time to do so. Ensure the bolts are centered with the toilet flange opening and parallel with the wall behind the toilet tank. Install any repair parts or spacers as needed before inserting the bolts. [6] X Research source
- If you aren’t replacing the bolts, make sure the existing ones are in good condition before placing the new seal.
- If you’ve noticed any leaks or wobbles with your toilet, it’s a good idea to install a toilet flange repair kit . If your flange is broken, your toilet won’t be anchored down and could fall over.
- Jones says, “The flange should not come up from the floor when you remove the toilet. It is meant to stay in place unless it was damaged or bent during the removal of the last toilet.”
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Attach a new wax seal. Make sure your new seal is the right size for your toilet by measuring the opening on the bottom of your toilet bowl. The wax ring should be the same size as the width of the opening. Place the new seal on top of the flange and make sure it’s perfectly centered. [7] X Research source Jones says to “follow directions on the package so that it is installed properly.”
- If the wax seal isn’t the right size, you could experience leaks.
- If you plugged the drain with towels, remember to remove them before reinstalling the toilet.
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Put the toilet back into place. With someone to help you, lift the toilet and set it back on top of the flange so that the bolts fit through the holes on the base of the toilet. Keep the toilet tank parallel to the wall behind it and apply firm downward pressure on the bowl as you lower the toilet. The wax ring should mold to the base to form a good seal and prevent sewer gases from escaping. [8] X Research source
- Don’t rock the toilet as you set it on the seal. Instead, use a slight side-to-side twisting motion until the bowl is resting on the floor.
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Bolt the toilet into place. Put the washers over the bolts and thread the nuts onto the bolts. Tighten the nuts until the toilet is secure, then press down hard on the toilet and tighten some more. Continue this process until the toilet is tightly secured to the flange. Be careful not to over-tighten the nuts, however, as this could crack the base of the bowl. Replace the caps over the bolts. [9] X Research source
- Jones recommends that you “go back and forth between the two bolts, tightening them in equal measure until the toilet is secure on its flange and isn’t rocking or moving.”
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Reconnect the water supply and test the toilet. Reattach the water supply line hose to the water supply valve and turn the compression nut clockwise. Turn the valve on and flush the toilet several times to make sure it’s secure. If you notice a leak beneath the base of the toilet, seat the toilet more firmly toward the floor by applying firm, even pressure on both sides of the rim. Tighten the bolts, then flush again. Your repair is complete if there are no leaks. [10] X Research source
- If there is still a leak after tightening the bolts, there may be a problem with the wax seal. In this case, remove the toilet and repeat the installation process with a new seal.
- Even if you don’t see any leaks at first, check the base again an hour after flushing the toilet and again the next day to make sure it’s properly sealed. When you’re sure there are no leaks, recaulk your toilet .
- If you want to replace the water supply line with a new one, Jones says, “Choose a flexible, braided stainless steel water supply line. These come in various lengths and can be purchased at [a] hardware store. Choose the length that most effectively fits the distance.”
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Community Q&A
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QuestionDoes the tank come apart from the rest of the toilet?Donald PatriquinCommunity AnswerYes it does, but if it is an old toilet be prepared for further problems, as the gasket between the tank and the main part of the toilet may need to be replaced if it is old and cracked. Also, the bolts holding the tank to the toilet bowl may be rusted and require replacement. There is plenty of information on this out there (search "separating toilet tank from bowl"). If it ain't broke you likely don't need to fix it!
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QuestionWhat should I do if the screws are too long to place the cover that holds the toilet into the floor?Community AnswerCut them to the desired height with a metal handsaw after tightening the toilet down. Put caps on.
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QuestionI see water dripping from the water valve, but when I feel the valve, no water residue is detected. Where can this drip be coming from?Community AnswerThe first option could be a leak from the toilet fill valve base. The seal in the tank under the fill valve may be loose or worn. Hand-tightening the plastic nut under the tank for the fill valve may re-seal it. Otherwise, a new fill valve can be installed (with a new seal). It could also be a leaking source valve. Either tighten the seal nut on the valve shaft or back the valve all the way open to seal the valve shaft. The third option could be humidity condensation. Add an insulation cover to the toilet tank to prevent condensation. Some systems use a portion of hot water for the tank refill to warm it enough to prevent condensation, and in such setups the hot water valve portion could be opened more.
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Tips
- If you’re having a hard time putting your toilet back on the flange, attach plastic drinking straws to the bolts. These will stick up well off of the floor and will guide you to the right placement.Thanks
- After you use the toilet for a few weeks, tighten the nuts at the base once more. The toilet will settle into the wax seal after several uses, and tightening the nuts helps to maintain the seal and prevent rocking.Thanks
- Check your local building codes to see if you are required to caulk around the base of the toilet. If you are, then be sure to use a tub and tile caulk that is mildew-resistant.Thanks
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Warnings
- Do not attempt to lift the toilet by yourself if it’s too heavy. Protect yourself, your toilet, and your bathroom by having someone help you move it.Thanks
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Things You'll Need
- Wax seal
- Towel or dry sponge
- Plastic cup
- Wrench or pliers
- Flathead screwdriver
- Piece of cardboard (optional)
- Putty knife (optional)
- Rags or old towel
- Mildew-resistant caulk (optional)
- Rubber gloves
References
- ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-replace-wax-ring-on-toilet/
- ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-replace-wax-ring-on-toilet/
- ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/plumbing/21015019/easy-fix-for-a-leaking-toilet
- ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/easy-fix-leaky-toilet
- ↑ https://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how-to-remove-and-replace-a-toilet-yourself
- ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-replace-wax-ring-on-toilet/
- ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-replace-wax-ring-on-toilet/
- ↑ https://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how-to-remove-and-replace-a-toilet-yourself
- ↑ https://todayshomeowner.com/plumbing/guides/how-to-remove-and-replace-a-toilet/
- ↑ https://todayshomeowner.com/plumbing/guides/how-to-remove-and-replace-a-toilet/
- ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/plumbing/21015019/easy-fix-for-a-leaking-toilet
- ↑ https://todayshomeowner.com/bathroom/guides/wax-vs-waxless-toilet-seals/
- ↑ https://todayshomeowner.com/bathroom/guides/wax-vs-waxless-toilet-seals/
- ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/sewer-smell-in-bathroom/
- ↑ https://www.housedigest.com/1154447/heres-whats-causing-the-soft-spots-on-your-floors/
- ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-replace-wax-ring-on-toilet/
- ↑ https://todayshomeowner.com/bathroom/guides/wax-vs-waxless-toilet-seals/
- ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-replace-wax-ring-on-toilet/
- ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-replace-wax-ring-on-toilet/
- ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-replace-wax-ring-on-toilet/
- http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,202149,00.html
About This Article
Article Summary
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To fix a leaky toilet seal, turn off the water supply to your toilet by turning the valve clockwise. Remove the lid of the toilet tank, then flush the toilet and hold down the handle until as much water drains out as possible. Use a cup to remove any remaining water from the bowl and tank and soak up the last bit of moisture with a towel. Turn the compression nut on the water supply line counterclockwise to disconnect the line. Then, pry the caps off the washers at the base of the toilet with the end of a flathead screwdriver. Some caps may also twist off. Use a wrench to remove the nuts, bolts, and washers under the caps. Hold the toilet under the bowl and gently rock it back and forth to break the old wax seal, then lift the toilet up and set it aside. Scrape away the old wax seal and replace it with a new one. Make sure the seal is perfectly centered on the flange before setting the toilet back in place. Put the washers, nuts, and bolts back and reconnect the water supply. Turn the supply valve back on and flush the toilet several times to make sure there are no leaks. For more tips on draining your toilet completely, read on!
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